Barnstaple to Hartland Point: March 2013

March 2013

Details of the South West Coast Path may be obtained from The South West Coast Path Association. The Association annually publishes a comprehensive guide, which is free for members. 

For maps I like to use the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer series and I find it very handy to print off relevant sections on A4 sheets.  This saves having to carry large maps, which have to be unfolded and re-folded repeatedly!  OS offer a good value subscription to GetaMap which enables one to print off sections of maps (both of the 1:50,000 Landranger and 1:25,000 Explorer series).

Up-to-date information to assist with planning walks using local bus services may be found on the Traveline website.

 

 

 



We walked the part of the Path from Barnstaple to Hartland Point while staying at The Beachside Holiday Park, Westward Ho!  The mobile home on the park provided us with comfortable self-catering accommodation, a few minutes' walk from the village and bus stops. 

 

Staying at Westward Ho! enabled us to use the excellent local bus services to provide links for our walks.

 

 

Saturday 09 March 2013:
Barnstaple to Instow

We drove to Westward Ho! on Friday 08 March and settled ourselves into our home for the week, ready for an early start for our first day of walking.

 

We caught the 09:07 bus for Barnstaple from opposite the car park, enjoying the views on the hour's journey from the front of the top deck.  Alighting from the bus on Braunton Road, we followed the Path from where we had left it - just beneath the new Taw Bridge (SS550333) - through Barnstaple to the Tourist Information Centre, situated at The Museum of Barnstaple and North Devon in The Square.  The Path then led us across the 'old' Long Bridge before joining the Tarka Trail.

 



For much of the way to Instow, the route follows the former railway line beside the Taw estuary.  This provides, for the most part, easy, level walking, much of it surfaced.  We were glad when we arrived at the old Fremington Quay Station for a brief pause for refreshment.  We started, sitting at one of the tables outdoors on the old platform, enjoying a delicious celeriac and thyme soup, when with little warning there was a sudden heavy shower.  We, together with the other customers on the platform/terrace quickly retreated indoors!



 

Fremington Quay Station Café

The shower didn't last long and we set out once again, following the Path around the marshes of East Yelland and Instow Barton, passing by the site of the old power station before reaching Instow.

 

We caught the bus from Instow back to Westward Ho!

 

Appeldore from Instow

 

Sunday 10 March 2013:
Instow to Westward Ho!



Appledore from Instow

Once again we caught the bus to the beginning of our walk at Instow.  The South West Coast Path continues to follow the old railway line and Tarka Trail as far as Bideford., where we took a short break for coffee at the old railway station in Bideford: the café is in an old railway carriage: the plate on it said that it was built in 1958!

 

After our coffee break it started raining - but we carried on regardless, leaving the Tarka Trail and crossing to the main part Bideford on the old Long Bridge, before turning north along the quay.

 

We had originally intended to leave the Coast Path near to Hyde Barton and catch a bus back to Westward Ho! from Northam Square.  Despite the showers, though, we decided to carry on - and completed the distance back to Westward Ho! on foot.  By doing this we 'gained' a day on our original itinerary: we were very pleased with ourselves!  It, perhaps, should be pointed out that the going on this section was 'easy' with very little in the way of ascents and descents.  The handbook tells me that the total ascent is 160 metres (528 ft).

En-route we paused for a picnic lunch in the bus shelter (sheltering from the rain) at Appledore and then, spying the Johns of Appledore café we decided that we needed to go inside for a warm-up and some (more) refreshment!  We had a pot of tea for two and Elizabeth had the last portion of excellent home-made soup, while I found room for a pasty.

When we had finished the second stage of our lunch break, we set off for Westward Ho!, passing through the picturesque narrow streets of Appledore and then around the rather exposed Northam Burrows Country Park.

The day's walk was approximately 19.9km (12 miles).

 

Monday 11 March 2013:
Westward Ho! to Worthygate Wood

The South West Coast Path Association's Guide suggests that the day walk from Westward Ho! might be to Clovelly: an 11 mile 6 hour 'strenuous' hike.  With that in view, we decided to split the stretch at Worthygate Wood (SS366237).

 

Looking north towards Westward Ho! from Peppercombe

 

There are certainly plenty of 'ups' and 'downs' to warrant this stretch the title of strenuous!  One is rewarded, though, by spectacular coastal views.

 

We broke our day's walk for a short picnic lunch break on the beach below Portledge before continuing on to Peppercombe Castle and Worthygate Wood, where we left the Coast Path at Gauter Pool to head inland to Higher and Lower Worthygate with a view to catch the bus back to Bideford with a connection there to Westward Ho!  As things worked out we were rather early for the bus - and there was no clear bus stop or shelter, so we walked down the main A39 road to The Hoops Inn, where we warmly welcomed and sat down for a coffee beside a roaring log fire.  That was after we had made sure that the bus would stop there!

 

The day's walk total was approximately 12.3km (7.5 miles).

 

Heading throught the woodland up to Peppercombe Castle we spotted some curious bright red 'cup-shaped' fungus.  We think that these were Scarlet Elf Cup (Sarcoscyph Coccinea).  Although allegedly edible (and we did not feel tempted to try!), they are not regarded as worth bothering with.

 

Scarlet Elf Cup (Courtesy of Guardian.co.uk)

We were very pleased with this 'find' as fungus tends to be rather scarce in the winter months!



Tuesday 12 March 2013:
Worthygate Wood to Clovelly

We drove from Westward Ho! to the layby just to the east of Lower Waytown (SS366237), parking the car there.  From the layby we retraced our steps to Coast Path near Gauter Pool in Worthygate Wood.

 

 

 

Follwing the Path west, we soon were steeply descending down to Buck's Mills.  What goes down must go up!  The path winding up through Keivill's Wood is rather steep: a long, steep climb!  The bench at the top was very welcome!

 

The rest of the day's walk was relatively easy following woodland and field paths before reaching The Hobby Drive for the final stretch to Clovelly.  The Hobby Drive was the old carriage road to Clovelly, emerging a few metres from the Clovelly Visitor Centre, with its café, shops, car parks and bus stop on the Bude and Hartland to Bideford and Barnstaple bus route.  Be warned, this is an infrequent service so if you intend to do a bus walk, careful planning may be necessary.

 

Total distance walked was approximately 9km (5½ miles).

For the return journey to the car we caught the bus from the Visitor Centre and then drove back to Westward Ho!  An alternative plan might be to park at the Visitor Centre (enquire about possible concessionary rates for Coast Path walkers) and take the bus to the beginning of your walk.


 



Wednesday 13 March:
Clovelly to Fatacott Cliff

View from above Clovelly

Another bus walk!  This time we drove to Hartland and parked in the Square car park (free) in time to catch the bus to Clovelly Visitor Centre.  The route (described in the SWCPA Guide and 'moderate to strenuous') has its fair share of steep 'ups' and downs'.  We paused for a picnic lunch after one of these climbs.

 

At Fatacott Cliff (SS264274) we turned away from the Coast Path on the sign-posted permissive path to return to Hartland down the lane (here we were caught in a sudden, sharp, hail storm) to West Fattacott Farm (the spelling on the map is different for the cliff and the farm!), then following the lanes back to the village, stopping for a flask of tea by a stile above Pattard Bridge, where a footpath crosses the steep meadow (SS262252) before returning to the car.

 

Thursday 14 March:
Fatacott Cliff to Hartland Point and
Upright Cliff

Hartland Lighthouse and Lundy Island

We had 'gained' a day on Sunday, so we took advantage of the additional day by doing a circular walk so that we could round Hartland Point, rightly described as one of the great defining headlands of the Coast Path and finishing this stretch above the small valley (un-named on my maps) between Upright Cliff and Smoothlands (SS230266). 

 

We parked the car in the (free) National Trust car park at East Titchberry (SS244270).  From there we followed the footpath to the Coast Path  and then headed east.  For the first 400 metres we followed the Coast Path and then where the Coast Path bears left, we followed the field path more or less straight ahead, roughly parallel to the cliffs; about 200 meters inland. 

 

At the permissive path near to Fatacott Cliff (SS264272), we turned left to rejoin the Coast Path, heading west towards Hartland Point with the rather curious 'mushroom-shaped' radar tower as a landmark

 

Close by Hartland Point there is a car park (charges may apply) and seasonal refreshments.

 

After 'turning the point' we headed south and crossed the small valley, climbed the steps, and headed inland along the rough footpath on the south side of the valley.  At the end of the path we turned left at the lane, crossed the footbridge and returned to the car park via Blagdon Farm and then along the lanes.

Lee Bay to Barnstaple: October 2012

Lee Bay to Barnstaple
Thursday 25 October to Monday 29 October 2012

For this section of the Coast Path we stayed at Sandbourne Bed and Breakfast, Croyde, getting to and from the beginning and end of each day's walk by bus and/or car.  Sandbourne was a very comfortable Bed and Breakfast, almost on the Coast Path itself.  Braunton might be a good alternative for this section, with good bus links around the region.

 

Thursday 25 October 2012

Drove from Bridport to Sandbourne after work so that we could make an early start on Friday morning.

 

Friday 26 October 2012
Lee Bay to Woolacombe (Walk total 8 miles)

Started the day with a full English breakfast at Sandbourne before setting out by car to Woolacombe, where we parked opposite the Tourist Information Office (car parking free out of season/charges apply during the holiday season).

 

We then caught the bus from Woolacombe to Borough Cross (OS Map Reference SS476444) and walked to Lee Bay via Warcombe Lane, Six Acre Wood and the woodland footpath down Borough Valley.  The Hotel marked on the map is virtually derelict: do not expect to be able to stay or find a meal there!  If you want a meal nearby, our experience of the Grampus Inn, just up the lane past the hotel buildings, was excellent.

 

It was at Lee Bay that we picked up the Coast Path once again, climbing out of the Bay at first on the road before taking the pathway on the right.  We followed the Path past Bull Point and Morte Point eventually reaching Woolacombe.

 

Elizabeth found lots of mushrooms on this part of the Path.

 

We're not quite sure what it is or whether it's edible!

After a wander around Woolacombe we had a supper meal at The Red Barn - the tag line on their web-site is 'Beer Food Surf Music'.

 

Elizabeth had a leek, Stilton and butternut squash crumble with a jacket potato and small salad (disappointing), while I had a jacket potato with chili beef and a small salad (good). 

 

After supper we returned to Sandbourne and to bed!

 

Saturday 27 October 2012
Woolacombe to Croyde (Walk total 8 miles)

Full English breakfast at Sandbourne before catching the bus to the start of the day's walk at Woolacombe (change at Braunton).

Before setting out on the Path we thought that it was a good idea to have a coffee at The Red Barn.  We eventually set out about noon, following The Marine Drive before turning to the west to head for Baggy Point.  Shortly after leaving Woolacombe the path became quite quiet, with only the occasional group of walkers.  All this changed at Baggy Point, with many people taking a stroll from Croyde to Baggy Point on a beautiful sunny day at the end of half term week.

Woolacombe and Morte Bay

Small Copper Butterfly near Baggy Point

After a lunch-time picnic below Croydehoe Farm, we followed the Coast Path across the beach and then took a detour into Croyde to 'see the sights' before returning to the Path, again across the beach to return to Sandbourne.

Our evening meal was taken at The Manor Inn, Croyde.  Elizabeth had a (rather more fatty than expected) belly of pork, while I had a very good seafood linguine.  The waitress and the chef agreed with our comments about the belly of pork and they offered us complimentary deserts.  We opted for a very good cheeseboard - to share.  We were very pleased with the way the staff handled our complaint and went back for dinner there the next day (Sunday).

Elizabeth tells me that I have written rather much about the detail of the meals taken while doing the Path.  Perhaps it will become something of a 'Gastronomic South West Coast Walk'!

 

Sunday 28 October 2012
Croyde to Braunton (Walk total 10 miles)

Once again had full English breakfast at Sandbourne before setting out on foot on the section to Braunton.

We took the upper route at Saunton Hotel.  It was well worth the climb to get off of the main road and for the views.  From Saunton we followed the 'official' path to the east of the golf course, rather than the walk across Saunton Sands.

As we were walking along the top of the dyke to Braunton, where we found a tea shop and had a hot chocolate drink and a toasted tea cake each.  A very welcome break! 

Also in the tea shop sheltering from the rain was another couple who were back-packing (camping) the Coast Path.  We were very impresed - they were not youngsters!  They were planning to go on to Barnstaple that evening.

We then caught the bus back to Croyde and we returned to Sandbourne to dry out before going to The Manor Inn for a roast beef carvery dinner.

 

Monday 29 October 2012
Braunton to Barnstaple (Walk total 6 miles)

After breakfast at the Bed and Breakfast we sett out by car for Barnstaple, where we caught the bus (frequent service) to Braunton.

We set out from Braunton after buying a picnic lunch from the Co-op store.  There are many other options for stocking up picnics at Braunton and a small but interesting museum at the Tourist Information Centre.

The Path follows the trackbed of the disused railway line; not, perhaps, the most interesting parts of the walk.  To begin with the Chivenor air base lies between the path and the Taw estuary, so there are no sea views until the air base is left behind, where the Path comes alongside the river estuary, with its interesting houseboats and busy waders.

We followed the Coast Path under the impressive Taw Bridge and returned to our car before making the return journey home.

We look forward to walking the next part of the Path from Barnstaple to Clovelly......

Lynmouth to Lee Bay: March 2012

Lynmouth to Lee Bay:
March 2012

The second section of the South West Coast Path which we tackled was the North Devon part between Lynmouth to Lee Bay (west of Ilfracombe).  This time, instead of being based in one place, we decided that we would 'back-pack' the trail.  Camping, though, was (and is) not for us!  Bed and Breakfast accommodation with a comfortable bed at the end of the day holds a far greater attraction!
 

Monday 26 March 2012
Lynmouth to Lee Abbey (2 miles)

We started out from home for the beginning of this section of the trail by bus.  Three buses, in fact: from Bridport to Exeter; Exeter to Barnstaple and from Barnstaple to Lynmouth.  All this was part of the adventure! 

 

At Lynmouth we joined the Coast Path beside the river and followed it up the hill to Lynton, and then on the North Walk around Hollerday Hill for the two miles to Lee Abbey, a Christian conference and holiday centre, where we had booked to stay for the first night of our walk.
 

Tuesday 27 March 2012
Lee Abbey to Hunter's Inn (5 miles)

 

We breakfasted at Lee Abbey, picked up our packed lunch and started out at about 10:30am for the five miles to Hunter's Inn.  We thought that we would be gentle with ourselves on the first full day of this section!

 

It was a lovely walk in which we took a detour down to Woody Bay, where we paused to enjoy the first part of our packed lunches: pasties.

 

We had the second 'course' of our packed lunches at the point where the Coast Path joins the footpath to Heddon's Mouth before continuing the final mile or so for the day to Hunter's Inn for the night.

 

Hunter's Inn

Our room, at the top of the house was large and comfortable with a huge en-suite bathroom. 

 

The dinner at Hunter's Inn was excellent.  Elizabeth had butternut squash soup with a main course of mussels.  I had marinated olives as a starter followed by a main course of belly of pork, mash and french beans and a side order of mixed vegetables.  The pork was absolutely exquisite and wonderfully 'crackled'!

 

Wednesday 28 March 2012
Hunter's Inn to Combe Martin (8¼ miles).

We had breakfast at Hunter's Inn.  Elizabeth had full English breakfast complete with black pudding.  I had cereals (I  never think that breakfast is really complete without cereal!), smoked salmon with scrambled egg and a croissant.  A hearty breakfast to set us up for the day.

 

It was a glorious summery day without a cloud in the sky as we set out from Hunter's Inn just after 10am.  The long, steep climb from the valley floor (the path here is described as 'strenuous'!)  rewarded us with some stunning views.  Some of the downhill sections were  tough on our feet and knees and we were very glad of a pause for a picnic lunch beside the stream after the steep descent to Sherrycombe.

 

Common Lizard
(Courtesy Amphibian and Reptile Conservation)

Flora and fauna spotted during the day included a lizard (was it a 'Common Lizard'?) basking in the sun at East Cleave; a Peregrine Falcon above Heddon's Mouth.  Primroses were in abundance.




We've walked all the 35 miles from Minehead. Only 595 miles to go!

 

We arrived at Melstock House, Combe Martin at about 5:00pm to a warm welcome by Penny and John Palmer, where we had our evening meal of fish pie.

 

Thursday 29 March 2012
Combe Martin to Ilfracombe (6 miles).

For most important meal of the day (breakfast) Elizabeth had (what else?) a 'full English'.  I had cereal, egg and bacon with some toast. An excellent Bed and Breakfast!

Another lovely walk.  This time fairly easy with moderate gradients and clear sign-posting.  We stopped at Rillage Point (a couple of miles from Ilfracombe) for the picnic lunch provided by Penny and John Palmer of Melstock House: ham sandwiches, crisps, apple, biscuit and a bottle of water (good value at £5.00 each).

Flora and fauna spotted en-route included: great black-backed gulls, jackdaws, robins, blue tits, alpacas (not wild!), primroses, daffodils and violets.

We arrived at Ilfracombe and had a wander there before checking into The Avalon Hotel.  Room 8 was at the top of the house, with sea views.

For our evening meal we discovered the Terrace Tapas and Wine Bar in Fore Street  and thoroughly enjoyed their 'Earlybird' 'All you can eat' menu.  Excellent value at £12.00 per person.  Would definitely go there again if we go back to Ilfracombe.

Friday 30 March 2012
Ilfracombe to Lee Bay (6 miles including distance to The Grey Cottage).

A departure from the usual breakfast for Elizabeth!  She had kipper fillets followed by prunes.  Vaughan had cereal followed by egg, bacon and fried bread, toast and preserves.  Bed and Breakfast to two at £54.00 represents very good value.

For our packed lunch we bought ham and salad baguettes from Adele's Café and Take Away opposite the bus station.

Leaving Ilfracombe we joined the path, heading, once again, in a westerly direction.  The path was clearly way-marked with stupendous views along the way.  Ascents and descents were gentle to moderate.  The weather was glorious!

Wildlife spotted along the way included robins, goldfinches, rock pipit and rooks.

We enjoyed our picnic lunch at Lee Bay before walking the mile up the valley to The Grey Cottage bed and breakfast.

After settling into our comfortable en-suite room (next door to the bathroom with its huge Victorian-style set in the middle of the room - much enjoyed by Elizabeth), we retraced our steps to Lee Bay for dinner at the Grampus Inn.  I had a delicious confit of duck with new potatoes, lentils, red cabbage and broccoli.  Elizabeth enjoyed her meal, she but can't remember what she had!

We then returned to The Grey Cottage and retired for the night.

Saturday 31 March 2012
The journey home

What are things coming to?  Not a hint of an English 'fry-up' even though it was on offer.  Instead we both had smoked haddock and a poached egg for breakfast.

After breakfast we walked the three miles to the telephone kiosk at Turnpike Cross, Ossaborough.  We had planned to catch the Filers service 303 from there to Barnstaple, but the Text advice from Traveline on my mobile phone did not mention this service.  This was just a little worrying!  When we asked a local man about bus service he said he didn't know about the buses, but, instead offered us a lift in the back of his Landrover to Mullacot Cross, which we gratefully accepted.  There we caught the First bus to Barnstaple and completed our journey home on the bus to Bridport, changing at Exeter.

Another very successful trip!  We were very pleased with ourselves for completing this part of the South West Coast Path leaving the car at home; travelling, instead to and from North Devon by bus and walking from one overnight to the next.  The weather could not have been better - perfect every day.

We look forward to carrying on from where we left off!

 

 

Details of the South West Coast Path may be obtained from The South West Coast Path Association. The Association annually publishes a comprehensive guide, which is free for members.

For detailed maps I like to use the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer series which I find it very convenient to print off relevant sections on A4 sheets.   This saves having to carry large maps, which have to be unfolded and re-folded repeatedly! OS offer a good value subscription to GetaMap which enables one to do this - and much more.

 





 

Minehead to Lynmouth: September 2011

One of my sons suggested that I should write a Blog on my attempt, with my wife, to walk the South West Coast Path.  So here goes!  If this first attempt at a Blog appears amateurish, please forgive me.

About twenty or so years ago I had walked the South Downs Way.  It took me several years to complete the distance between Eastbourne to Winchester, but I gained something of a 'bug' for long distance footpaths.

Starting out on the Path

Having moved to Dorset in 2007, with the Jurassic Coast and the South West Coast Path on our doorstep, there was now the real challenge of the tackling our 'local' path.

The decision to attempt walking the 630 miles of the Path was a bit of a joint thing!  I liked the idea, but didn't do very much about it, except for going on day walks from home to do nearby sections.  Elizabeth, my wife, said 'Let's do it!' 

We had walked some of the Cornish coast and most of the East Devon and West Dorset coast on our day walks over a good number of years, but we decided that we would start at Minehead and tackle the path in the anti-clockwise direction.

For many reasons we did not feel that it was practical for us to complete the path in one session, but to take it in 'bite-sized' chunks.  This is a personal record of our attempts at doing the Path in 'easy (or relatively easy) stages'.  We had no intention of exhausting ourselves by trying to complete all the sections in the time-scale that South West Coast Path Association's handbook might be possible.

Although this is essentially a personal record, we hope that it might be of interest and, possibly, assistance to other walkers wanting to walk the South West Coast Path in a 'walking for softies' way - and to spend time enjoying the scenery at the same time!  Let us know if this is of any help!

Maybe we will meet some of you along the way!

Details of the South West Coast Path may be obtained from The South West Coast Path Association. The Association annually publishes a comprehensive guide, which is free for members.

For maps I like to use the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer series and I find it very handy to print off relevant sections on A4 sheets. This saves having to carry large maps, which have to be unfolded and re-folded repeatedly (fun in gale-force winds)! OS offer a good value subscription to OS Maps which enables one to do this - and much more. Many of my plotted walks are available to subscribers of OS Maps. 

We have tried to do linear walks as far as possible, and have completed some sections of the path using a combination of bed and breakfast accommodation and youth hostels, back-packing our way.

For other sections we have used a combination of the car and buses to get to the beginning and from the end of the day's walk.  Sometimes, where the bus services are very limited, very careful planning is needed!  If you plan to use buses, there are sections where there might be just one suitable bus a week!  The Traveline South West website is an invaluable tool for planning bus walks, with maps of bus routes, the location of bus stops and full timetable information.

Yet other sections of the Path we completed as circular walks.

Minehead to Lynmouth 

For the first section: from Minehead to Lynmouth we stayed at the Exford Youth Hostel and travelled by car and bus to get to the beginning and end of each day's walk.





Exford Youth Hostel



Day One: Monday 26 September 2011
Minehead to Porlock Weir
(approx 10 miles)

To start with we drove to Porlock Weir to catch the bus to the beginning of the walk at Minehead. Before we set out, though, it was important that we got our priorities right - so we stopped by in a café and had a Cappuccino (Elizabeth) and an Americano (me)!

We eventually set off about 10:40am, after the obligatory posing for photographs at the monument at the start of the Path.

This section is a lovely stretch and we took the easier 'official' path, spending the time we saved by not going on the 'rugged' route by having a cream tea at the tea rooms in Bossington before crossing the marsh to Porlock Weir.

We then returned to Exford by car.

South West Coast Path distance from Minehead to Porlock Weir: 15.3km (9.5 miles)
Total walking distance: 16km (10 miles)
Cumulative distances (approximate):
From Minehead: 15.3km (9.5 miles);
To South Haven Point: 1000km (620 miles).

SWCP-001

And we did it! Finishing at South Haven Point on 30 December 2014 ..... we did not stop there, though, continuing in an easterly direction, with Dover in sight!

We then spent two rather more leisurely days: we went to Lundy Island from Ilfracombe on the Tuesday and to Arlington Court (National Trust) on the Wednesday.

Day Two: Thursday 29 September 2011
Porlock Weir to County Gate (5½ miles)

Culbone Church

Once again we drove to Porlock Weir and started out on the Coast Path about 9:30am, heading for County Gate, stopping for a picnic lunch at Culbone Church on the way.  Fairly steep climbs and descents in places (described in the South West Coast Path Association guide as 'Moderate, strenuous in parts').  A lovely walk!

From County Gate we caught the bus to Porlock and then caught another bus from there to Porlock Weir before returning to Exford.

Day Three: Friday 30 September 2011
County Gate to Lynmouth (6½ miles)

We drove the distance from Exford to County Gate and parked in the car park at the Visitor Centre before setting out for Lynmouth at about 9:40am.  Another lovely walk - with the expected 'moderate and strenuous in parts'! 

We returned by County Gate by bus and continued back to Exford by car.

We enjoyed a very good meal at The Crown Hotel, Exford.  Elizabeth had a sea food dish of fish with mussels and prawns and I had duck breast, followed by a cheese board - with plenty for two to share.