Lynmouth to Lee Bay:
March 2012
The second section of the South West Coast Path which we tackled was the North Devon part between Lynmouth to Lee Bay (west of Ilfracombe). This time, instead of being based in one place, we decided that we would 'back-pack' the trail. Camping, though, was (and is) not for us! Bed and Breakfast accommodation with a comfortable bed at the end of the day holds a far greater attraction!
Monday 26 March 2012
Lynmouth to Lee Abbey (2 miles)
We started out from home for the beginning of this section of the trail by bus. Three buses, in fact: from Bridport to Exeter; Exeter to Barnstaple and from Barnstaple to Lynmouth. All this was part of the adventure!
At Lynmouth we joined the Coast Path beside the river and followed it up the hill to Lynton, and then on the North Walk around Hollerday Hill for the two miles to Lee Abbey, a Christian conference and holiday centre, where we had booked to stay for the first night of our walk.
Tuesday 27 March 2012
Lee Abbey to Hunter's Inn (5 miles)
We breakfasted at Lee Abbey, picked up our packed lunch and started out at about 10:30am for the five miles to Hunter's Inn. We thought that we would be gentle with ourselves on the first full day of this section!
It was a lovely walk in which we took a detour down to Woody Bay, where we paused to enjoy the first part of our packed lunches: pasties.
We had the second 'course' of our packed lunches at the point where the Coast Path joins the footpath to Heddon's Mouth before continuing the final mile or so for the day to Hunter's Inn for the night.
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| Hunter's Inn |
Our room, at the top of the house was large and comfortable with a huge en-suite bathroom.
The dinner at Hunter's Inn was excellent. Elizabeth had butternut squash soup with a main course of mussels. I had marinated olives as a starter followed by a main course of belly of pork, mash and french beans and a side order of mixed vegetables. The pork was absolutely exquisite and wonderfully 'crackled'!
Wednesday 28 March 2012
Hunter's Inn to Combe Martin (8¼ miles).
We had breakfast at Hunter's Inn. Elizabeth had full English breakfast complete with black pudding. I had cereals (I never think that breakfast is really complete without cereal!), smoked salmon with scrambled egg and a croissant. A hearty breakfast to set us up for the day.
It was a glorious summery day without a cloud in the sky as we set out from Hunter's Inn just after 10am. The long, steep climb from the valley floor (the path here is described as 'strenuous'!) rewarded us with some stunning views. Some of the downhill sections were tough on our feet and knees and we were very glad of a pause for a picnic lunch beside the stream after the steep descent to Sherrycombe.
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| Common Lizard (Courtesy Amphibian and Reptile Conservation) |
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| We've walked all the 35 miles from Minehead. Only 595 miles to go! |
We arrived at Melstock House, Combe Martin at about 5:00pm to a warm welcome by Penny and John Palmer, where we had our evening meal of fish pie.
Thursday 29 March 2012
Combe Martin to Ilfracombe (6 miles).
For most important meal of the day (breakfast) Elizabeth had (what else?) a 'full English'. I had cereal, egg and bacon with some toast. An excellent Bed and Breakfast!
Another lovely walk. This time fairly easy with moderate gradients and clear sign-posting. We stopped at Rillage Point (a couple of miles from Ilfracombe) for the picnic lunch provided by Penny and John Palmer of Melstock House: ham sandwiches, crisps, apple, biscuit and a bottle of water (good value at £5.00 each).
Flora and fauna spotted en-route included: great black-backed gulls, jackdaws, robins, blue tits, alpacas (not wild!), primroses, daffodils and violets.
We arrived at Ilfracombe and had a wander there before checking into The Avalon Hotel. Room 8 was at the top of the house, with sea views.
For our evening meal we discovered the Terrace Tapas and Wine Bar in Fore Street and thoroughly enjoyed their 'Earlybird' 'All you can eat' menu. Excellent value at £12.00 per person. Would definitely go there again if we go back to Ilfracombe.
Friday 30 March 2012
Ilfracombe to Lee Bay (6 miles including distance to The Grey Cottage).
A departure from the usual breakfast for Elizabeth! She had kipper fillets followed by prunes. Vaughan had cereal followed by egg, bacon and fried bread, toast and preserves. Bed and Breakfast to two at £54.00 represents very good value.
For our packed lunch we bought ham and salad baguettes from Adele's Café and Take Away opposite the bus station.
Leaving Ilfracombe we joined the path, heading, once again, in a westerly direction. The path was clearly way-marked with stupendous views along the way. Ascents and descents were gentle to moderate. The weather was glorious!
Wildlife spotted along the way included robins, goldfinches, rock pipit and rooks.
We enjoyed our picnic lunch at Lee Bay before walking the mile up the valley to The Grey Cottage bed and breakfast.
After settling into our comfortable en-suite room (next door to the bathroom with its huge Victorian-style set in the middle of the room - much enjoyed by Elizabeth), we retraced our steps to Lee Bay for dinner at the Grampus Inn. I had a delicious confit of duck with new potatoes, lentils, red cabbage and broccoli. Elizabeth enjoyed her meal, she but can't remember what she had!
We then returned to The Grey Cottage and retired for the night.
Saturday 31 March 2012
The journey home
What are things coming to? Not a hint of an English 'fry-up' even though it was on offer. Instead we both had smoked haddock and a poached egg for breakfast.
After breakfast we walked the three miles to the telephone kiosk at Turnpike Cross, Ossaborough. We had planned to catch the Filers service 303 from there to Barnstaple, but the Text advice from Traveline on my mobile phone did not mention this service. This was just a little worrying! When we asked a local man about bus service he said he didn't know about the buses, but, instead offered us a lift in the back of his Landrover to Mullacot Cross, which we gratefully accepted. There we caught the First bus to Barnstaple and completed our journey home on the bus to Bridport, changing at Exeter.
Another very successful trip! We were very pleased with ourselves for completing this part of the South West Coast Path leaving the car at home; travelling, instead to and from North Devon by bus and walking from one overnight to the next. The weather could not have been better - perfect every day.
We look forward to carrying on from where we left off!
After breakfast we walked the three miles to the telephone kiosk at Turnpike Cross, Ossaborough. We had planned to catch the Filers service 303 from there to Barnstaple, but the Text advice from Traveline on my mobile phone did not mention this service. This was just a little worrying! When we asked a local man about bus service he said he didn't know about the buses, but, instead offered us a lift in the back of his Landrover to Mullacot Cross, which we gratefully accepted. There we caught the First bus to Barnstaple and completed our journey home on the bus to Bridport, changing at Exeter.
Another very successful trip! We were very pleased with ourselves for completing this part of the South West Coast Path leaving the car at home; travelling, instead to and from North Devon by bus and walking from one overnight to the next. The weather could not have been better - perfect every day.
We look forward to carrying on from where we left off!
Details of the South West Coast Path may be obtained from The South West Coast Path Association. The Association annually publishes a comprehensive guide, which is free for members.
For detailed maps I like to use the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer series which I find it very convenient to print off relevant sections on A4 sheets. This saves having to carry large maps, which have to be unfolded and re-folded repeatedly! OS offer a good value subscription to GetaMap which enables one to do this - and much more.
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