Friday, 22 November 2013

Morvah to Penzance: October 2013

Pendeen Watch Lighthouse
For the section of the Coast Path from Morvah to Penzance we were based at the Land's End (St Just) and Penzance YHA hostels and completed the 28 or so miles of the path in a week.  The total distance walked was just short of 40 miles.  This included additional distance getting to and from the Coast Path.  At the end of the week we reckoned that the cumulative distance from Minehead that we had walked was about 273 miles.

Morvah to Geevor Tin Mine

Monday 14 October 2013

We set out from home for Pendeen, Boscaswell Stores, where we parked the car in the free car park.  We then caught the Western Greyhound bus to Morvah, where we had prematurely finished walking in September.  The premature end to walking had been brought about by Vaughan painfully twisting his ankle, with rest 'prescribed' by the nurse at Bridport hospital.
 







At Morvah Church

Vaughan was not a little apprehensive about whether it was wise to be attempting to walk on a still rather tender ankle and whether it would hold up with the continued rigours of a 'severe' section of the path.  He embarked on the walk with caution: watching for any uneven surface that might present difficulty and put any extra strain on the ankle.  We had deliberately planned fairly short distances for the week.
 
So we set out, once again with spectacular coastal scenery every step of the way and with Pendeen Watch with its lighthouse as a goal.
 
Pendeen Watch is one of those significant headlands - along with Morte Point, Hartland Point and Trevose Head, and more - which had become aims along the way.  Once passed, they gave confirmation that progress had been made and with it a real sense of achievement.  There will be many more of these headlands and coastal landmarks before South Haven Point and Poole Harbour is reached!
 
With the change of direction at Pendeen Watch, we headed in a south-west, with hard rock mining in the region very much in evidence.  The Geevor Tin Mine finally ceased production as recently as 1992.  We returned to the car, passing by the now disused mine buildings, which are being revived as the tourist attraction of a museum and heritage centre, complete with restaurant.
 

Geevor Mine to Nanven and the Cot Valley

Tuesday 15 October 2013


Botallack Mine
For this linear walk we walked from Land's End YHA to the bus station in St Just to catch the bus to Geevor Mine.  St Just is described as 'the most westerly town in England'.  With a little imagination, it has just a touch of the 'wild west' about it!

Before catching the 10:37 First 10A bus, we paid a brief visit to the church and when we arrived at Geevor Tin Mine we headed straight to the Mine Cafe for an excellent carrot and lentil soup and a roll before setting out on the walk back to the hostel.

Evidence of mining is to be seen for much of the way, with mine workings and engine houses perched on the cliff tops.  These days it seems strange that this was an area of intense industrial activity.

Cape Cornwall
The Path heads south - and west - to Cape Cornwall: England's only Cape.  We did the circuit of the Cape, pausing to eat our picnic lunch at the foot of the 1864 chimney of the former Cape Cornwall Mine, which now commemorates the purchase of Cape Cornwall for the nation by the H J Heinz Company.  This is now National Trust property.

From Cape Cornwall, we followed the Path down to the Cot Valley, where we returned to Land's End YHA for a rest!

Land's End Youth Hostel
South West Coast Path distance: 4.6 miles; walk total approximately 6.75 miles.  Cumulative total from Minehead approximately 252 miles: to be celebrated with a Betty Stogs beer!
 

Land's End Youth Hostel to Sennen Cove

Wednesday 16 October 2013

The challenge was to get to Sennen Cove in time to catch the last direct bus back to St Just: the 14:20 Western Greyhound service 504*.  We left the hostel before nine for the four miles or so, passing more stunning scenery along the way; arriving at Sennen cove in plenty of time for the bus and with time to explore, eat our picnic and buy a coffee at the Little Bo Cafe.
 
The going of this section is described as 'moderate'.  It was, however, not without its challenge in places - at least with a sore ankle!  There was some negotiating of rocky and uneven paths and some scrambling over rocks.
 
At Aire Rock we came across some workmen carrying out some improvements by building some steps over a rocky obstacle.
 
Whitesand Bay from Sennen Cove
On this walk on this warm and sunny day we found some field mushrooms, kestrel, gannets diving for fish in Whitesand Bay and cormorants at Sennen Cove.
 
Distance walked on the South West Coast Path was about 4 miles with total walk of just over 6 miles.  The cumulative distance from Minehead: approximately 255 miles.

*Note: Western Greyhound service 504 ceased operating 02 November 2013.


Sennen Cove to Minack Theatre, Porthcurno

Thursday 17 October 2013

An early start (9am) from Land's End YHA to the Minack Theatre car park (honesty box) in time to catch the 09:59 Western Greyhound service 504* bus to Sennen Cove.

Land's End and Longships Lighthouse in the haze
Before setting out on the Path, we paused for a coffee at the Little Bo Cafe and then headed out, with the first goal of our day's walk being Land's End, where we took an early lunch break and bought delicious, hot, fresh, Cornish Pasties from Warren's kiosk.

At Land's End
After the obligatory photographs - close by the famous signpost, we headed on, leaving the crowds behind with the Minack Theatre as our goal.  Once again, the scenery was absolutely stunning.

Rock Arch and Longships Lighthouse

Hard Rock Cliffs

Evening Light
Flora and fauna spotted along the way included buzzards, kestrel, heron, seals as well as caterpillars and butterflies; sea thrift and blackberries.

South West Coast Path distance: just over 6 miles, with a cumulative distance from Minehead of 262 miles.
 



*Note: Western Greyhound service 504 ceased operating 02 November 2013.

Minack Theatre, Porthcurno to Lamorna Cove

Saturday 19 October 2013

We had a 'rest' day on Friday.  The weather was promising to be horrible all day, so decided that, instead of walking in the rain, which we thought would not be much fun, we would visit the Geevor Tin Mine.  An excellent choice of a wet-weather activity, which, together with the above- and underground tour took us all day.
 
We resumed our Coast Path walking the next day, at first by driving to the small layby near to the Merry Maidens stone circle.  We had arrived in time to catch the 09:41 Western Greyhound service 504 (this service ceased to operate in November 2013). 
 
When we arrived there it was raining and from inside our car we watched a steady downpour.  Was it a stupid thing to try to walk a tough stretch of coast path on such a day?  We had almost given up on the idea, when - less than ten minutes before the bus was due, the rain stopped: the comedy hit single by Allan Sherman 'Hello Muddah, Hello Fadduh', comes to mind!
 
Hurridly we 'booted-up' and got ourselves ready, just in time to catch the bus, which was absolutely on time, to the Minack Theatre car park.

Logan Rock, Porthcurno


At Porthcurno

 
The South West Coast Path Association's handbook describes this section as 'moderate', but Vaughan, at lease, found the going somewhat difficult: his 'crocked' ankle was not helping!  Underfoot it was rocky and muddy.


Penberth Cove

Lunchtime at Penberth Cove

Coral Fungus
It had been our intention to walk as far as Boscawen Point and Zawn Gamper and then turn inland, taking the lane past Tregiffian Farm to the layby near the Merry Maidens.  The map suggested that this might be possible, but the gate to the farm lane had a very clear 'Private - No Footpath' notice on it, so we continued the extra mile or so to Lamorna Cove, enjoying, so we convinced ourselves, a pot of tea and a delicious 'sticky ginger' cake.
 
Tater-du Lighthouse

Our return to the car was up the delightful valley to the Cove and then up the lane to New Town and crossing the fields, passing through the centre of the Merry Maidens stone circle.  After a wet start to the day, the weather improved as
 
The distance covered on the South West Coast Path was approximately five and a half miles, with a walk total of about 7 miles.  Total distance (from Minehead): about 268 miles.


Lamorna Cove to Penzance (Alexandra Road)

Sunday 20 October 2013

A wet morning!  Instead of an early start we had a leisurely start to the day and walked from Penzance YHA to catch the 11:28 bus to Lamorna Turn for the walk down the lane to the Cove to begin on the Coast Path. 

Once again, before beginning our Coast Path walk, we stopped at the cafe, this time for a light lunch of delicious crab, fish and vegetable soup.


Lamorna Cove

Setting out from Lamorna Cove
To start with the way was strenuous; Vaughan continued to find the downhill and rocky stretches quite difficult.  After Mousehole, where we stopped for our picnic lunch overlooking the harbour, the way underfoot was easy, mostly hard-surfaced.

Mousehole Harbour

Newlyn

On the way to Penzance

Penzance YHA
The day's walk total was approximately 8 miles; 5 miles was on the South West Coast Path.
During the week we covered approximately 28.5 miles of the South West Coast Path and the total distance walked was approximately 39 miles.  The cumulative total (from Minehead) is about 273 miles.

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