Hartland Point to Bude: April 2013

April 2013

 

We decided to complete the part of the South West Coast Path from Hartland Point to Bude over three days: back-packing, walking about seven miles each day.

 

Monday 15 April

The journey to the start of the walk was by car to Stratton, near Bude, where we parked the car close by the church for the three days of our walk.  We then caught the bus to Hartland and walked the three miles to West Titchberry Farm along quiet country lanes. We received a warm welcome from Mrs Heard, who cooked a very tasty evening meal of beef casserole with vegetables followed by apple and blackberry crumble.  We then enjoyed coffee in the sitting room with a log fire, watching television, before retiring to bed in the huge en-suite bedroom.

 

West Titchberry Farm

 

Tuesday 16 April:
From West Titchberry Farm to Elmscott Youth Hostel

Today was the beginning of the proper walk!  We began the day with a hearty 'full English' Farmhouse breakfast and then Mrs Heard bid us farewell with an excellent - and very good value - packed lunch.

 

We commenced our walk by heading towards Smoothlands (SS230266), where we had finished the previous section in March 2013.  From there we followed the 'ups' and 'downs' (a hall-mark of this section - almost all the way to Bude) as far as Hartland Quay, where we called at the Hartland Quay Hotel for a light lunch: Elizabeth had soup and I had an 'Award-winning Devon Pasty'!  We were glad to be able to escape indoors to from the biting, cold wind.

 

Looking south from Hartland Quay

A cold day at Hartland Quay

After lunch we set out for Elmscott Bunkhouse Youth Hostel.  When reached the signpost to the hostel we decided that, as we were ahead of scedule, we would continue to Dixon's Well and Sandhole Cross (SS224211); turning left to reach the hostel by the lane.

 

As we were the only guests at the hostel, we were able to choose which room we could use - so we chose the comfort of the largest (six-bed) room in the old schoolhouse.  We bought provisions from the hostel store to make an evening meal and breakfast in the morning.



'That way .... but not yet!'



We have a soft spot for Elmscott Youth Hostel.  Way back in the late 1980s we acted as voluntary wardens for two weeks in two consecutive years, so it was a little like returning home!

Elmscott Bunkhouse

Wednesday 17 April 2013
Elmscott to Morwenstow

We started out from the Youth Hostel on route to Morwenstow just before 10am, rejoining the Coast Path at Dixon's Wells (SS224211).  The whole coastline is spectacular with steep, deep valleys to be negotiated - frequently.

 

Ronald Duncan's Hut

 

We stopped for lunch in Ronald Duncan's Hut - again glad of being able to escape from the strong wind for a few minutes.  Ronald Duncan (1914 to 1982) is described in Wikepedia as a 'writer, poet and playwright' and the hut was built to in his memory to replace the one in which he used to write, which stood in the same place, but became delapidated over the years.

 

With thanks to Robert: 'The Solitary Walker' (see his Blogs)



Shortly after leaving Ronald Duncan's Hut, we crossed the footbridge at Welcombe Mouth, leaving North Devon behind: entering Cornwall before heading on to Morwenstow.

 

Welcombe Mouth

We somehow missed Hawker's Hut on the cliffs at Morwenstow.  We were later told that sign was not very clear!  Instead we continued on the Path and descended to Tibna Shute before following the delightful wooded valley with its carpet of wild flowers: daffodils, primroses and violets to Trelawney Bed and Breakfast, Crosstown, Morwenstow.

 

After eventually finding Trelawney (we asked for directions at The Bush Inn) and booking in, we returned to the inn for an excellent dinner.  We enjoyed the company there of a couple who were also walking the Coast Path.  

 

Trelawney Bed and Breakfast, Crosstown, Morwenstow

Thursday 18 April 2013
Morwenstow to Bude

Mrs White of Trelawney Bed and Breakfast served an excellent and tasty breakfast before we returned to the Coast Path, retracing our steps through Tibna Shute.  The first part of the Path was more strenuous than the latter, with one very steep climb from Stanbury Mouth.

 

 

Inquisitive cattle and the Radio Station above Duckpool

We eventually made it to Sandy Mouth, where there was a café.  We were glad to have somewhere to sit and enjoyed a jacket potato and a pot of tea for a late lunch, buying some eccles cakes for pudding - for later.

 

 

Sandymouth Café

The rest of the way to Bude was relatively 'easy': at least after all the 'ups' and 'downs' of the last couple of days!  We made our way to The Strand bus stop (where we ate our eccles cakes!) and caught the bus to Stratton to puck up the car for the journey home.

 

On the way home we stopped off at The Puffing Billy at Exton for an excellent dinner to round off this thoroughly enjoyable part of our South West Coast Path expedition.

 

 



 

Details of the South West Coast Path may be obtained from The South West Coast Path Association. The Association annually publishes a comprehensive guide, which is free for members.

For maps I like to use the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer series and I find it very handy to print off relevant sections on A4 sheets. This saves having to carry large maps, which have to be unfolded and re-folded repeatedly! OS offer a good value subscription to GetaMap which enables one to print off sections of maps (both of the 1:50,000 Landranger and 1:25,000 Explorer series).

Up-to-date information to assist with planning walks using local bus services may be found on the Traveline website.