Penzance to Coverack: November 2013

Penzance to Coverack

For this section of the Coast Path we were based in two YHA hostels.  We returned to the hostel at Penzance for a two night stay and then moved on to the excellent self-catering hostel at Lizard Point.

 

We made a last minute booking at Penzance so that we could take advantage of a reasonable weather forecast: starting this part of our walk on Saturday 09 November, driving down to Penzance in time to start our walk at about 1 pm.

Penzance (Alexandra Road) to Marazion
Saturday 09 November 2013

This was an easy more or less level walk, following the Esplanade from the seaward end of Alexandra Road.

 

The iconic St Michael's Mount just off of Marazion in Mounts Bay is always within sight on this section.

 

 

The day was dull - but, at least - to start with, anyway - it was dry.  We followed the path round to Marazion and when we reached there we discovered that the road in the centre of the village was closed.  We carried on, nevertheless, to the cemetery bus stop, where we had planned to catch the bus back to Penzance.
 

Near the bus stop, though, a 'local' suggested to us that the bus would not be going that way because of the road closure and that we should retrace our steps to the other (western) side of Marazion to catch the bus.  So, as it began spotting with rain,  we headed back through the village; the rain getting heavier all the while.  Not very pleasant!

When we finally reached the bus stop there was already a group of a dozen or so people overflowing from the small shelter - so we had to wait out in the cold and wet.  Not such a good start for our week's walk!

 

We had yet another wet walk - a very wet walk - from the bus station along the Esplanade and back to the car for the short drive to Penzance YHA, where - at last - we were able dry out.  We were very grateful that we were given a four bed room instead of the two bed room that we had booked.  Neither of us had to do that undignified climb onto the top bunk!

 

Penzance YHA

 

SWCP distance (to Marazion cemetery) approximately 5 miles with a total walked of about 7 miles.  Cumulative distance from Minehead: approximately 277 miles.

 

Marazion to Praa Sands
Sunday 10 November 2013

St Michael's Mount

Drove from Penzance Youth Hostel to Marazion to start the day's walk.  The weather in the morning gave us wonderful, clear views across Mounts Bay to St Michael's Mount.

Easy walking to begin with, becoming strenuous later.

 

Praa Sands

We caught the First service 2 bus from opposite the shop at Trewartha Road for the journey back from Praa Sands to Marazion.

The South West Coast Path distance for the day's walk was approximately 5 miles and a total walking distance of just under 7 miles.  The additional distance was because we wandered around Praa Sands somewhat aimlessly!  The cumulative distance on the Coast Path from Minehead to Praa Sands is about 282 miles.


Praa Sands to Porthleven
Monday 11 November 2013
 

'Move day' - from Penzance YHA to The Lizard YHA for the remainder of this section of the Coast Path.  Once again we made our own breakfast  before leaving the hostel at about 09:45, in time to stop at the Morrison's Supermarket for some basic supplies on the way to Porthleven.

 

Arrived in Porthleven with ample time to catch the bus from there to Praa Sands, so we spent a few minutes at The Brew House for an excellent coffee.  The First number 2 bus was on time and we left at 11:39, arriving at Praa to start waling about midday.

 

It was a grey and misty day with very little in the way of views to be seen.  Fortunately, though, the rain held off, so, at least, we kept dry.

 

The engine houses and mine workings near Rinsey loomed out of the mists like great giants.  The mist brought a unique atmosphere to this stretch, which, we felt sure, would have provided spectacular views, had the visibility been good.

 

On the way to Porthleven

Porthleven

Reaching Porthleven, with its harbour and cluster of houses and shops, we drove on to The Lizard YHA in the mist and as darkness fell. We enjoyed a warm welcome from the voluntary warden and made ourselves at home in our spacious room with a huge en-suite wet room. A perfect place to stay for our exploration of the Coast Path around The Lizard.

The South West Coast Path distance was approximately 4.5 miles and the total walk distance just under 6 miles. The cumulative distance from Minehead to Porthleven is 288 miles.

 

Porthleven to Mullion Cove
Tuesday 12 November 2013

It was a glorious, sunny, winter's day with high clouds and sunny spells: an enormous contrast to Monday's weather!

We left the hostel by car at about 08:40 and headed for Helston, where we parked in the free Lakeside car park on the Porthleven Road and caught the First service 2 bus to Porthleven for the beginning of the seven miles or so to Mullion Cove.

Porthleven

The route took us across Loe Bar with its single beach between The Loe and Carminowe Creek on the landward side and sea.

The Loe Bar

Along the way we also passed by Gunwalloe Fishing Cove,  Church Cove (the church was closed for repairs), Poldu Cove with its Marconi Museum and cliff-top monument.



Poldu

 

Poldu Cove

 

Marconi Monument: Poldu

Polurrian Cove, Mullion

A local man on his way to do some sea fishing said that he hoped to land a catch of sea bass.

We extended our walk to Mullion Cove before cutting inland to the Mullion Cricket Club to catch the First number 37 bus back to Helston.  This turned out to be the school bus which started from the school in Mullion.  Schoolchildren kindly gave up their seats for us as we boarded the bus.  One by one the children got off of the bus as it made its circuitous way to Helston: all the way down the lanes to Gunwalloe; returning the same way.

When we reached Helston we bought some basic provisions from a High Street store and from the Lidl supermarket before returning to The Lizard YHA.

Flora and Fauna spotted: Kestrels, cormorants and mushrooms of different types.

The South West Coast Path distance for the day's walk was approximately 7.5 miles and the total walk distance about 9 miles. The cumulative distance from Minehead to Mullion Cove is about 294 miles.

 

Mullion Cove  to Lizard Point
Wednesday 13 November 2013

Another good day: a few light clouds with bright sunny intervals.

 

Lizard YHA

 

We left the hostel early - in time to catch the 08:47 First service 37 bus to Mullion.  From the top deck of the bus we enjoyed watching the scenery pass by, at the same time having local points of interest drawn to our attention by a local gentleman.

 

Lizard Point from Kynance Cliff

 

 

Kynance Cliff

 

Arriving at Mullion Cricket Club, we alighted from the bus and retraced our steps to Mullion Cove and resumed our South West Coast Path walk from there, passing Mullion Head (National Trust), the delightful Kynance Cove; rounding Lizard Point before returning to Lizard YHA.  Along the way we found vast numbers of fungi!

 

The South West Coast Path distance for the day's walk was approximately 7.5 miles and the total walk distance about 9 miles. The cumulative distance from Minehead to The Lizard YHA is about 301 miles.

 

Lizard Point to Cadgwith and Thorny Cliff (Kuggar)
Thursday 14 November 2013

The path from Lizard YHA to Cadgwith is described as 'moderate, strenuous in places', promising a 'not very difficult' day's walk.  This was helped by generally good weather: somewhat windy and just a couple of fairly heavy showers.

 

The path took us past Housel Bay with its hotel looking out to sea, by Bass Point and Church Cove - and on to Cadgwith.  Shortly before reaching Cadgwith is the impressive collapsed cave called the Devil's Frying Pan.

 

The Devil's Frying Pan, Cadgwith

Being lunch time by the time we reached Cadgwith, we called at The Cadgwith Cove Inn for an excellent seafood chowder, before carrying on a short distance to eat our packed lunches overlooking the village.

 

The Cadgwith Cove

 

Cadgwith

After our lunch break we continued to Thorny Cliff, near Kuggar. then heading back to Ruan Minor to catch the bus to The Lizard.

 

Footbridge at Poltesco.

 

The South West Coast Path distance for the day's walk was approximately 5.3 miles and the total walk distance about 8 miles. The cumulative distance from Minehead to Thorny Cliff is about 306 miles.

Thorny Cliff (Kuggar) to Coverack
Friday 15 November 2013

A cloudy but dry day, but muddy underfoot in places.

The South West Coast Path Association handbook describes the distance between The Lizard and Coverack as 'moderate, strenuous in places'.  With that in mind, we set out by car from The Lizard YHA for the short drive to Kuggar.  The plan was to walk to Coverack and to catch the bus back to Kuggar.

 

We took the lane from Kuggar to the beach at Carn Kennack and then headed in an easterly direction towards Black Head, passing The Bees on the way.  At Black Head we found a little shelter from the strong wind beside the National Trust look-out before proceeding to Coverack via the inland diversion due to land slip at Chynhalls Cliff.  This took us, to our surprise, through a Sculpture Park before descending to the village of Coverack.

 

We had penty of time to walk around the village before catching the 16:15 bus to Kuggar that we had intended to catch, so we headed for the Fat Mackerel Café, where Elizabeth enjoyed a healthy and delicious fish stew and Vaughan an unhealthy and also delicious chocolate fudge cake.  All very good and thoroughly recommended.

 

On our way to the bus stop we met a couple who we had met the prevous day on the Coast Path.  They offered us a lift to Kuggar, which we gratefully accepted, as the lift saved us a good hour and a half on the bus.

The South West Coast Path distance from Thorny Cliff to Coverack car park was just short of 6 miles with a total walk of 7.3 miles.

During the seven days walking of the South West Coast Path we covered a distance of approximately 40 miles on the path, with the total distance walked being approximately 53 miles.

Morvah to Penzance: October 2013

Pendeen Watch Lighthouse

For the section of the Coast Path from Morvah to Penzance we were based at the Land's End (St Just) and Penzance YHA hostels and completed the 28 or so miles of the path in a week.  The total distance walked was just short of 40 miles.  This included additional distance getting to and from the Coast Path.  At the end of the week we reckoned that the cumulative distance from Minehead that we had walked was about 273 miles.

Morvah to Geevor Tin Mine

Monday 14 October 2013

We set out from home for Pendeen, Boscaswell Stores, where we parked the car in the free car park.  We then caught the Western Greyhound bus to Morvah, where we had prematurely finished walking in September.  The premature end to walking had been brought about by Vaughan painfully twisting his ankle, with rest 'prescribed' by the nurse at Bridport hospital.

 

At Morvah Church

Vaughan was not a little apprehensive about whether it was wise to be attempting to walk on a still rather tender ankle and whether it would hold up with the continued rigours of a 'severe' section of the path.  He embarked on the walk with caution: watching for any uneven surface that might present difficulty and put any extra strain on the ankle.  We had deliberately planned fairly short distances for the week.

 

So we set out, once again with spectacular coastal scenery every step of the way and with Pendeen Watch with its lighthouse as a goal.

 

Pendeen Watch is one of those significant headlands - along with Morte Point, Hartland Point and Trevose Head, and more - which had become aims along the way.  Once passed, they gave confirmation that progress had been made and with it a real sense of achievement.  There will be many more of these headlands and coastal landmarks before South Haven Point and Poole Harbour is reached!

 

With the change of direction at Pendeen Watch, we headed in a south-west, with hard rock mining in the region very much in evidence.  The Geevor Tin Mine finally ceased production as recently as 1992.  We returned to the car, passing by the now disused mine buildings, which are being revived as the tourist attraction of a museum and heritage centre, complete with restaurant.

 

Geevor Mine to Nanven and the Cot Valley

Tuesday 15 October 2013



Botallack Mine

For this linear walk we walked from Land's End YHA to the bus station in St Just to catch the bus to Geevor Mine.  St Just is described as 'the most westerly town in England'.  With a little imagination, it has just a touch of the 'wild west' about it!

Before catching the 10:37 First 10A bus, we paid a brief visit to the church and when we arrived at Geevor Tin Mine we headed straight to the Mine Cafe for an excellent carrot and lentil soup and a roll before setting out on the walk back to the hostel.

Evidence of mining is to be seen for much of the way, with mine workings and engine houses perched on the cliff tops.  These days it seems strange that this was an area of intense industrial activity.

Cape Cornwall

The Path heads south - and west - to Cape Cornwall: England's only Cape.  We did the circuit of the Cape, pausing to eat our picnic lunch at the foot of the 1864 chimney of the former Cape Cornwall Mine, which now commemorates the purchase of Cape Cornwall for the nation by the H J Heinz Company.  This is now National Trust property.

From Cape Cornwall, we followed the Path down to the Cot Valley, where we returned to Land's End YHA for a rest!

Land's End Youth Hostel

South West Coast Path distance: 4.6 miles; walk total approximately 6.75 miles.  Cumulative total from Minehead approximately 252 miles: to be celebrated with a Betty Stogs beer!
 

Land's End Youth Hostel to Sennen Cove

Wednesday 16 October 2013

The challenge was to get to Sennen Cove in time to catch the last direct bus back to St Just: the 14:20 Western Greyhound service 504*.  We left the hostel before nine for the four miles or so, passing more stunning scenery along the way; arriving at Sennen cove in plenty of time for the bus and with time to explore, eat our picnic and buy a coffee at the Little Bo Cafe.

 

The going of this section is described as 'moderate'.  It was, however, not without its challenge in places - at least with a sore ankle!  There was some negotiating of rocky and uneven paths and some scrambling over rocks.

 

At Aire Rock we came across some workmen carrying out some improvements by building some steps over a rocky obstacle.

 

Whitesand Bay from Sennen Cove

On this walk on this warm and sunny day we found some field mushrooms, kestrel, gannets diving for fish in Whitesand Bay and cormorants at Sennen Cove.

 

Distance walked on the South West Coast Path was about 4 miles with total walk of just over 6 miles.  The cumulative distance from Minehead: approximately 255 miles.

*Note: Western Greyhound service 504 ceased operating 02 November 2013.

Sennen Cove to Minack Theatre, Porthcurno

Thursday 17 October 2013

An early start (9am) from Land's End YHA to the Minack Theatre car park (honesty box) in time to catch the 09:59 Western Greyhound service 504* bus to Sennen Cove.

Land's End and Longships Lighthouse in the haze

Before setting out on the Path, we paused for a coffee at the Little Bo Cafe and then headed out, with the first goal of our day's walk being Land's End, where we took an early lunch break and bought delicious, hot, fresh, Cornish Pasties from Warren's kiosk.

At Land's End

After the obligatory photographs - close by the famous signpost, we headed on, leaving the crowds behind with the Minack Theatre as our goal.  Once again, the scenery was absolutely stunning.

Rock Arch and Longships Lighthouse

Hard Rock Cliffs

Evening Light

Flora and fauna spotted along the way included buzzards, kestrel, heron, seals as well as caterpillars and butterflies; sea thrift and blackberries.

South West Coast Path distance: just over 6 miles, with a cumulative distance from Minehead of 262 miles.
 

*Note: Western Greyhound service 504 ceased operating 02 November 2013.

Minack Theatre, Porthcurno to Lamorna Cove

Saturday 19 October 2013

We had a 'rest' day on Friday.  The weather was promising to be horrible all day, so decided that, instead of walking in the rain, which we thought would not be much fun, we would visit the Geevor Tin Mine.  An excellent choice of a wet-weather activity, which, together with the above- and underground tour took us all day.

 

We resumed our Coast Path walking the next day, at first by driving to the small layby near to the Merry Maidens stone circle.  We had arrived in time to catch the 09:41 Western Greyhound service 504 (this service ceased to operate in November 2013). 

 

When we arrived there it was raining and from inside our car we watched a steady downpour.  Was it a stupid thing to try to walk a tough stretch of coast path on such a day?  We had almost given up on the idea, when - less than ten minutes before the bus was due, the rain stopped: the comedy hit single by Allan Sherman 'Hello Muddah, Hello Fadduh', comes to mind!

 

Hurridly we 'booted-up' and got ourselves ready, just in time to catch the bus, which was absolutely on time, to the Minack Theatre car park.



Logan Rock, Porthcurno



At Porthcurno

 

The South West Coast Path Association's handbook describes this section as 'moderate', but Vaughan, at lease, found the going somewhat difficult: his 'crocked' ankle was not helping!  Underfoot it was rocky and muddy.



Penberth Cove

Lunchtime at Penberth Cove

Coral Fungus

It had been our intention to walk as far as Boscawen Point and Zawn Gamper and then turn inland, taking the lane past Tregiffian Farm to the layby near the Merry Maidens.  The map suggested that this might be possible, but the gate to the farm lane had a very clear 'Private - No Footpath' notice on it, so we continued the extra mile or so to Lamorna Cove, enjoying, so we convinced ourselves, a pot of tea and a delicious 'sticky ginger' cake.

 

Tater-du Lighthouse

Our return to the car was up the delightful valley to the Cove and then up the lane to New Town and crossing the fields, passing through the centre of the Merry Maidens stone circle.  After a wet start to the day, the weather improved as

 

The distance covered on the South West Coast Path was approximately five and a half miles, with a walk total of about 7 miles.  Total distance (from Minehead): about 268 miles.

Lamorna Cove to Penzance (Alexandra Road)

Sunday 20 October 2013

A wet morning!  Instead of an early start we had a leisurely start to the day and walked from Penzance YHA to catch the 11:28 bus to Lamorna Turn for the walk down the lane to the Cove to begin on the Coast Path. 

Once again, before beginning our Coast Path walk, we stopped at the cafe, this time for a light lunch of delicious crab, fish and vegetable soup.

Lamorna Cove

Setting out from Lamorna Cove

To start with the way was strenuous; Vaughan continued to find the downhill and rocky stretches quite difficult.  After Mousehole, where we stopped for our picnic lunch overlooking the harbour, the way underfoot was easy, mostly hard-surfaced.

Mousehole Harbour

Newlyn

On the way to Penzance

Penzance YHA

The day's walk total was approximately 8 miles; 5 miles was on the South West Coast Path.During the week we covered approximately 28.5 miles of the South West Coast Path and the total distance walked was approximately 39 miles.  The cumulative total (from Minehead) is about 273 miles.

Hell's Mouth, Gwithian to Morvah: September 2013

The original aim was to walk the distance to St Just.  Events happened to prevent this, but more of that in due course!

 

Our base for this section was The Treloyhan Manor Hotel in St Ives, a Christian Guild Hotel.  The hotel provided comfortable, good value half board accommodation: excellent buffet breakfasts each morning and good evening meals.

 

St Ives

Gwithian, Hell's Mouth to Hayle

We started this section on Sunday 15 September 2013 by catching the Western Greyhound service 547 bus from the Cornish Arms bus stop, near to the Treloyhan Manor Hotel to the Hell's Mouth Cafe, Gwithian.  After coffee at the cafe, we set out on the way to Hayle, pausing to watch the 15 or so seals way below us on the beach at Fisherman's Cove - too far below us to make a worthwhile photograph.

 

The path then took us around Navax Point and Godrevy Point with the lighthouse on Godrevy Island.

 

At Godrevy Point

Weather had started fine, but as we rounded Godrevy Point and headed towards Hayle the heavens opened!  The rest of the way that day, as we negotiated our way across the dunes to Hayle, was a wet way.

 

When we finally arrived at Hayle we were glad to catch the Western Greyhound bus back to the Cornish Arms bus stop with a welcome bath back at the hotel.  The day's walk was an easy eight miles with little in the way of ascent or descent.

Hayle to St Ives

The next stage was from Hayle to St Ives, which we did on a rather wet day.

We caught the bus from St Ives to Hayle to walk the return journey.  We bought sandwiches for lunch and paused for a coffee before setting out - and then, dodging a rain shower, ducked into the Hayle Heritage Centre.

The Centre provides a fascinating insight to the history of the area and of the importance of the town in the earlier days of the Industrial Revolution.

From the Heritage Centre, The Coast Path passes underneath Brunel's railway Viaduct and then across The Causeway, along the northern side of the Hayle Estuary.

The Hayle Estuary is described by the RSPB on their web site as one of the best places for wildlife in the UK.  Among the birds which we spotted on the estuary were swans, little egrets, oystercatcher, teal and greenshank.

On the way back to St Ives we visited St Uny Church, Lelant, overlooking The Towans on the opposite side of the estuary and then followed alongside the railway to Carbis Bay, where we ate our sandwiches sitting on the bench at the top of the flight of steps near to Carbis Bay Station.

Before returning to the hotel we paused again for refreshments at the cafe on the beach at Carbis Bay: an easy walk of about 5.5 miles.

St Ives to Zennor

We had already walked the section from Treloyhan Manor Hotel into St Ives, around St Ives Head, alternatively called 'The Island', as far as the Tate St Ives Gallery, on the Saturday that we arrived in St Ives.  We thought that it would still 'count' if we did not repeat this section!

We started the day by a quick trip to the Tesco store for our picnic lunch for the day, before catching the bus the short distance from The Cornish Arms to the bus station in St Ives. 

We set out through the town: up hill and down again, passing the Back-packers hostel on the way, eventually reaching the coast path just below the cemetery.

The South West Coast Path Guide describes this section as 'severe': so we were expecting it to be tough: 'It is tough going, with rocky scrambles and boggy lengths.  But it can only be described as a magnificent length.'  We agree: certainly it has its challenges, but the stunning views more than compensate.  We were fortunate, too, that after a long dry period, we did not have to contend with very much in the way of boggy patches, despite the heavy showers on the way.

A rock to clamber over.....

At Zennor Head we headed for the hamlet of Zennor, with its pub, the Tinners Arms and Backpackers Hostel. 

We had plenty of time before the bus (a Western Greyhound bus service 508) to St Ives was due, so we paused for refreshment at the Inn.  When we arrived at the bus station we, once again, rather 'cheated' and caught the bus up the hill to the hotel.

The day's walk was about 7.5 miles, 6 of which were on the Coast Path.  Another thoroughly enjoyable, and - yes, challenging day.

Zennor to Morvah

It had been our intention to walk from Zennor to Pendeen, but events, referred to previously, put an end to this.

The day started absolutely fine: we returned to Tescos to buy our picnic lunch and then walked down to the bus station with plenty of time to catch the 09:35 Western Greyhound bus to Zennor, arriving there at just the right time to pause for a coffee at the Backpackers Hostel.

Refreshed, we set out on the way, heading the half mile or so back to the Coast Path, passing the church on the way.

Zennor Church

All was going very well, passing by Gurnard's Head and Porthmeor Point followed by Porthmeor Cove.  Once again the going was 'severe'.  But that didn't daunt us!

It was fascinating and awe-inspiring to watch the gannets doing their aerobatics and diving for fish along this coastline.

Gurnard's Head

We were doing well - with Pendeen Watch well within our sights for the day's walk.  Then it all came to an end!  Near Carn Veslan Cliff, a short distance after Porthmeor Cove, Vaughan, as usual stepping out ahead, stepped on what he thought was firm ground, which proved to be nothing more an a soft clump of grass.  Over he went!  And with a suddenly very painful ankle!

The Path - not where he fell, though!

We carried gingerly on for a bit, until Vaughan decided, just by Morvah that he did not want to go on any further.  We finally made it, with Vaughan hobbling on the uneven path to the shelter of the church.  There we waited the hour for the bus back to St Ives.

That was all the walking for this trip; we returned home early, Vaughan resting his sore ankle!

The total day's walk was approximately 7 miles (South West Coast Path distance approximately 5 miles).  The cumulative distance from Minehead was approximately 243 miles.