Lee Bay to Barnstaple: October 2012

Lee Bay to Barnstaple
Thursday 25 October to Monday 29 October 2012

For this section of the Coast Path we stayed at Sandbourne Bed and Breakfast, Croyde, getting to and from the beginning and end of each day's walk by bus and/or car.  Sandbourne was a very comfortable Bed and Breakfast, almost on the Coast Path itself.  Braunton might be a good alternative for this section, with good bus links around the region.

 

Thursday 25 October 2012

Drove from Bridport to Sandbourne after work so that we could make an early start on Friday morning.

 

Friday 26 October 2012
Lee Bay to Woolacombe (Walk total 8 miles)

Started the day with a full English breakfast at Sandbourne before setting out by car to Woolacombe, where we parked opposite the Tourist Information Office (car parking free out of season/charges apply during the holiday season).

 

We then caught the bus from Woolacombe to Borough Cross (OS Map Reference SS476444) and walked to Lee Bay via Warcombe Lane, Six Acre Wood and the woodland footpath down Borough Valley.  The Hotel marked on the map is virtually derelict: do not expect to be able to stay or find a meal there!  If you want a meal nearby, our experience of the Grampus Inn, just up the lane past the hotel buildings, was excellent.

 

It was at Lee Bay that we picked up the Coast Path once again, climbing out of the Bay at first on the road before taking the pathway on the right.  We followed the Path past Bull Point and Morte Point eventually reaching Woolacombe.

 

Elizabeth found lots of mushrooms on this part of the Path.

 

We're not quite sure what it is or whether it's edible!

After a wander around Woolacombe we had a supper meal at The Red Barn - the tag line on their web-site is 'Beer Food Surf Music'.

 

Elizabeth had a leek, Stilton and butternut squash crumble with a jacket potato and small salad (disappointing), while I had a jacket potato with chili beef and a small salad (good). 

 

After supper we returned to Sandbourne and to bed!

 

Saturday 27 October 2012
Woolacombe to Croyde (Walk total 8 miles)

Full English breakfast at Sandbourne before catching the bus to the start of the day's walk at Woolacombe (change at Braunton).

Before setting out on the Path we thought that it was a good idea to have a coffee at The Red Barn.  We eventually set out about noon, following The Marine Drive before turning to the west to head for Baggy Point.  Shortly after leaving Woolacombe the path became quite quiet, with only the occasional group of walkers.  All this changed at Baggy Point, with many people taking a stroll from Croyde to Baggy Point on a beautiful sunny day at the end of half term week.

Woolacombe and Morte Bay

Small Copper Butterfly near Baggy Point

After a lunch-time picnic below Croydehoe Farm, we followed the Coast Path across the beach and then took a detour into Croyde to 'see the sights' before returning to the Path, again across the beach to return to Sandbourne.

Our evening meal was taken at The Manor Inn, Croyde.  Elizabeth had a (rather more fatty than expected) belly of pork, while I had a very good seafood linguine.  The waitress and the chef agreed with our comments about the belly of pork and they offered us complimentary deserts.  We opted for a very good cheeseboard - to share.  We were very pleased with the way the staff handled our complaint and went back for dinner there the next day (Sunday).

Elizabeth tells me that I have written rather much about the detail of the meals taken while doing the Path.  Perhaps it will become something of a 'Gastronomic South West Coast Walk'!

 

Sunday 28 October 2012
Croyde to Braunton (Walk total 10 miles)

Once again had full English breakfast at Sandbourne before setting out on foot on the section to Braunton.

We took the upper route at Saunton Hotel.  It was well worth the climb to get off of the main road and for the views.  From Saunton we followed the 'official' path to the east of the golf course, rather than the walk across Saunton Sands.

As we were walking along the top of the dyke to Braunton, where we found a tea shop and had a hot chocolate drink and a toasted tea cake each.  A very welcome break! 

Also in the tea shop sheltering from the rain was another couple who were back-packing (camping) the Coast Path.  We were very impresed - they were not youngsters!  They were planning to go on to Barnstaple that evening.

We then caught the bus back to Croyde and we returned to Sandbourne to dry out before going to The Manor Inn for a roast beef carvery dinner.

 

Monday 29 October 2012
Braunton to Barnstaple (Walk total 6 miles)

After breakfast at the Bed and Breakfast we sett out by car for Barnstaple, where we caught the bus (frequent service) to Braunton.

We set out from Braunton after buying a picnic lunch from the Co-op store.  There are many other options for stocking up picnics at Braunton and a small but interesting museum at the Tourist Information Centre.

The Path follows the trackbed of the disused railway line; not, perhaps, the most interesting parts of the walk.  To begin with the Chivenor air base lies between the path and the Taw estuary, so there are no sea views until the air base is left behind, where the Path comes alongside the river estuary, with its interesting houseboats and busy waders.

We followed the Coast Path under the impressive Taw Bridge and returned to our car before making the return journey home.

We look forward to walking the next part of the Path from Barnstaple to Clovelly......

Lynmouth to Lee Bay: March 2012

Lynmouth to Lee Bay:
March 2012

The second section of the South West Coast Path which we tackled was the North Devon part between Lynmouth to Lee Bay (west of Ilfracombe).  This time, instead of being based in one place, we decided that we would 'back-pack' the trail.  Camping, though, was (and is) not for us!  Bed and Breakfast accommodation with a comfortable bed at the end of the day holds a far greater attraction!
 

Monday 26 March 2012
Lynmouth to Lee Abbey (2 miles)

We started out from home for the beginning of this section of the trail by bus.  Three buses, in fact: from Bridport to Exeter; Exeter to Barnstaple and from Barnstaple to Lynmouth.  All this was part of the adventure! 

 

At Lynmouth we joined the Coast Path beside the river and followed it up the hill to Lynton, and then on the North Walk around Hollerday Hill for the two miles to Lee Abbey, a Christian conference and holiday centre, where we had booked to stay for the first night of our walk.
 

Tuesday 27 March 2012
Lee Abbey to Hunter's Inn (5 miles)

 

We breakfasted at Lee Abbey, picked up our packed lunch and started out at about 10:30am for the five miles to Hunter's Inn.  We thought that we would be gentle with ourselves on the first full day of this section!

 

It was a lovely walk in which we took a detour down to Woody Bay, where we paused to enjoy the first part of our packed lunches: pasties.

 

We had the second 'course' of our packed lunches at the point where the Coast Path joins the footpath to Heddon's Mouth before continuing the final mile or so for the day to Hunter's Inn for the night.

 

Hunter's Inn

Our room, at the top of the house was large and comfortable with a huge en-suite bathroom. 

 

The dinner at Hunter's Inn was excellent.  Elizabeth had butternut squash soup with a main course of mussels.  I had marinated olives as a starter followed by a main course of belly of pork, mash and french beans and a side order of mixed vegetables.  The pork was absolutely exquisite and wonderfully 'crackled'!

 

Wednesday 28 March 2012
Hunter's Inn to Combe Martin (8¼ miles).

We had breakfast at Hunter's Inn.  Elizabeth had full English breakfast complete with black pudding.  I had cereals (I  never think that breakfast is really complete without cereal!), smoked salmon with scrambled egg and a croissant.  A hearty breakfast to set us up for the day.

 

It was a glorious summery day without a cloud in the sky as we set out from Hunter's Inn just after 10am.  The long, steep climb from the valley floor (the path here is described as 'strenuous'!)  rewarded us with some stunning views.  Some of the downhill sections were  tough on our feet and knees and we were very glad of a pause for a picnic lunch beside the stream after the steep descent to Sherrycombe.

 

Common Lizard
(Courtesy Amphibian and Reptile Conservation)

Flora and fauna spotted during the day included a lizard (was it a 'Common Lizard'?) basking in the sun at East Cleave; a Peregrine Falcon above Heddon's Mouth.  Primroses were in abundance.




We've walked all the 35 miles from Minehead. Only 595 miles to go!

 

We arrived at Melstock House, Combe Martin at about 5:00pm to a warm welcome by Penny and John Palmer, where we had our evening meal of fish pie.

 

Thursday 29 March 2012
Combe Martin to Ilfracombe (6 miles).

For most important meal of the day (breakfast) Elizabeth had (what else?) a 'full English'.  I had cereal, egg and bacon with some toast. An excellent Bed and Breakfast!

Another lovely walk.  This time fairly easy with moderate gradients and clear sign-posting.  We stopped at Rillage Point (a couple of miles from Ilfracombe) for the picnic lunch provided by Penny and John Palmer of Melstock House: ham sandwiches, crisps, apple, biscuit and a bottle of water (good value at £5.00 each).

Flora and fauna spotted en-route included: great black-backed gulls, jackdaws, robins, blue tits, alpacas (not wild!), primroses, daffodils and violets.

We arrived at Ilfracombe and had a wander there before checking into The Avalon Hotel.  Room 8 was at the top of the house, with sea views.

For our evening meal we discovered the Terrace Tapas and Wine Bar in Fore Street  and thoroughly enjoyed their 'Earlybird' 'All you can eat' menu.  Excellent value at £12.00 per person.  Would definitely go there again if we go back to Ilfracombe.

Friday 30 March 2012
Ilfracombe to Lee Bay (6 miles including distance to The Grey Cottage).

A departure from the usual breakfast for Elizabeth!  She had kipper fillets followed by prunes.  Vaughan had cereal followed by egg, bacon and fried bread, toast and preserves.  Bed and Breakfast to two at £54.00 represents very good value.

For our packed lunch we bought ham and salad baguettes from Adele's Café and Take Away opposite the bus station.

Leaving Ilfracombe we joined the path, heading, once again, in a westerly direction.  The path was clearly way-marked with stupendous views along the way.  Ascents and descents were gentle to moderate.  The weather was glorious!

Wildlife spotted along the way included robins, goldfinches, rock pipit and rooks.

We enjoyed our picnic lunch at Lee Bay before walking the mile up the valley to The Grey Cottage bed and breakfast.

After settling into our comfortable en-suite room (next door to the bathroom with its huge Victorian-style set in the middle of the room - much enjoyed by Elizabeth), we retraced our steps to Lee Bay for dinner at the Grampus Inn.  I had a delicious confit of duck with new potatoes, lentils, red cabbage and broccoli.  Elizabeth enjoyed her meal, she but can't remember what she had!

We then returned to The Grey Cottage and retired for the night.

Saturday 31 March 2012
The journey home

What are things coming to?  Not a hint of an English 'fry-up' even though it was on offer.  Instead we both had smoked haddock and a poached egg for breakfast.

After breakfast we walked the three miles to the telephone kiosk at Turnpike Cross, Ossaborough.  We had planned to catch the Filers service 303 from there to Barnstaple, but the Text advice from Traveline on my mobile phone did not mention this service.  This was just a little worrying!  When we asked a local man about bus service he said he didn't know about the buses, but, instead offered us a lift in the back of his Landrover to Mullacot Cross, which we gratefully accepted.  There we caught the First bus to Barnstaple and completed our journey home on the bus to Bridport, changing at Exeter.

Another very successful trip!  We were very pleased with ourselves for completing this part of the South West Coast Path leaving the car at home; travelling, instead to and from North Devon by bus and walking from one overnight to the next.  The weather could not have been better - perfect every day.

We look forward to carrying on from where we left off!

 

 

Details of the South West Coast Path may be obtained from The South West Coast Path Association. The Association annually publishes a comprehensive guide, which is free for members.

For detailed maps I like to use the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer series which I find it very convenient to print off relevant sections on A4 sheets.   This saves having to carry large maps, which have to be unfolded and re-folded repeatedly! OS offer a good value subscription to GetaMap which enables one to do this - and much more.

 





 

Minehead to Lynmouth: September 2011

One of my sons suggested that I should write a Blog on my attempt, with my wife, to walk the South West Coast Path.  So here goes!  If this first attempt at a Blog appears amateurish, please forgive me.

About twenty or so years ago I had walked the South Downs Way.  It took me several years to complete the distance between Eastbourne to Winchester, but I gained something of a 'bug' for long distance footpaths.

Starting out on the Path

Having moved to Dorset in 2007, with the Jurassic Coast and the South West Coast Path on our doorstep, there was now the real challenge of the tackling our 'local' path.

The decision to attempt walking the 630 miles of the Path was a bit of a joint thing!  I liked the idea, but didn't do very much about it, except for going on day walks from home to do nearby sections.  Elizabeth, my wife, said 'Let's do it!' 

We had walked some of the Cornish coast and most of the East Devon and West Dorset coast on our day walks over a good number of years, but we decided that we would start at Minehead and tackle the path in the anti-clockwise direction.

For many reasons we did not feel that it was practical for us to complete the path in one session, but to take it in 'bite-sized' chunks.  This is a personal record of our attempts at doing the Path in 'easy (or relatively easy) stages'.  We had no intention of exhausting ourselves by trying to complete all the sections in the time-scale that South West Coast Path Association's handbook might be possible.

Although this is essentially a personal record, we hope that it might be of interest and, possibly, assistance to other walkers wanting to walk the South West Coast Path in a 'walking for softies' way - and to spend time enjoying the scenery at the same time!  Let us know if this is of any help!

Maybe we will meet some of you along the way!

Details of the South West Coast Path may be obtained from The South West Coast Path Association. The Association annually publishes a comprehensive guide, which is free for members.

For maps I like to use the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer series and I find it very handy to print off relevant sections on A4 sheets. This saves having to carry large maps, which have to be unfolded and re-folded repeatedly (fun in gale-force winds)! OS offer a good value subscription to OS Maps which enables one to do this - and much more. Many of my plotted walks are available to subscribers of OS Maps. 

We have tried to do linear walks as far as possible, and have completed some sections of the path using a combination of bed and breakfast accommodation and youth hostels, back-packing our way.

For other sections we have used a combination of the car and buses to get to the beginning and from the end of the day's walk.  Sometimes, where the bus services are very limited, very careful planning is needed!  If you plan to use buses, there are sections where there might be just one suitable bus a week!  The Traveline South West website is an invaluable tool for planning bus walks, with maps of bus routes, the location of bus stops and full timetable information.

Yet other sections of the Path we completed as circular walks.

Minehead to Lynmouth 

For the first section: from Minehead to Lynmouth we stayed at the Exford Youth Hostel and travelled by car and bus to get to the beginning and end of each day's walk.





Exford Youth Hostel



Day One: Monday 26 September 2011
Minehead to Porlock Weir
(approx 10 miles)

To start with we drove to Porlock Weir to catch the bus to the beginning of the walk at Minehead. Before we set out, though, it was important that we got our priorities right - so we stopped by in a café and had a Cappuccino (Elizabeth) and an Americano (me)!

We eventually set off about 10:40am, after the obligatory posing for photographs at the monument at the start of the Path.

This section is a lovely stretch and we took the easier 'official' path, spending the time we saved by not going on the 'rugged' route by having a cream tea at the tea rooms in Bossington before crossing the marsh to Porlock Weir.

We then returned to Exford by car.

South West Coast Path distance from Minehead to Porlock Weir: 15.3km (9.5 miles)
Total walking distance: 16km (10 miles)
Cumulative distances (approximate):
From Minehead: 15.3km (9.5 miles);
To South Haven Point: 1000km (620 miles).

SWCP-001

And we did it! Finishing at South Haven Point on 30 December 2014 ..... we did not stop there, though, continuing in an easterly direction, with Dover in sight!

We then spent two rather more leisurely days: we went to Lundy Island from Ilfracombe on the Tuesday and to Arlington Court (National Trust) on the Wednesday.

Day Two: Thursday 29 September 2011
Porlock Weir to County Gate (5½ miles)

Culbone Church

Once again we drove to Porlock Weir and started out on the Coast Path about 9:30am, heading for County Gate, stopping for a picnic lunch at Culbone Church on the way.  Fairly steep climbs and descents in places (described in the South West Coast Path Association guide as 'Moderate, strenuous in parts').  A lovely walk!

From County Gate we caught the bus to Porlock and then caught another bus from there to Porlock Weir before returning to Exford.

Day Three: Friday 30 September 2011
County Gate to Lynmouth (6½ miles)

We drove the distance from Exford to County Gate and parked in the car park at the Visitor Centre before setting out for Lynmouth at about 9:40am.  Another lovely walk - with the expected 'moderate and strenuous in parts'! 

We returned by County Gate by bus and continued back to Exford by car.

We enjoyed a very good meal at The Crown Hotel, Exford.  Elizabeth had a sea food dish of fish with mussels and prawns and I had duck breast, followed by a cheese board - with plenty for two to share.